We escaped from our sticky farm this weekend, aided by Ryanair’s bargain basement selection. Naughty but nice- and who’s going to quibble about 99p flights to Milan (except some bright green environmentalist who didn’t get trench foot in a Lincolnshire bog this summer!)
Regular readers will know that we love our busman’s holidays, so we chose an agriturismo in the agricultural heartland of northeastern Italy. Sandwiched between the rivers Po, Adda, and Serio, this flat landscape of dykes and poplars was reassuringly familiar, yet completely new.
Firstly, how is it that Italy is stuffed with architectural gems, palazzios and grandiose churches in even the most insignificant of villages? Our agriturismo, a stunning fortified farm grabbed from the adjoining convent sometime in the distant past, had orchards of rare apple varieties in the old walled garden, and was overlooked by the domes and towers of the original nunnery, now sliding into elegant decay. The sun shone benignly down as we munched our way through home cured wafer-thin ham and tiny fruit pies, washed down by freshly pressed apple and pear juice from the surrounding orchards. Our hostess, Anna, works even harder than we do and was wonderfully helpful. Excellent value- 72 Euros for a lovely double room and breakfast. www.agriturismosantamaria.com
So when I asked her if there were any foodie events in this area, birthplace of the Slow Food Movement(antithesis of fast food and junk culture), she directed us to a tiny ancient walled town called Pizzighetone
BIGGEST BEANFEAST EVER
Pizzighetone straddles the River Adda, surrounded by a fantastic wall that until 10 years ago was falling down. The enterprising locals formed themselves into a “Volunteers of The Wall” group, and organized an annual bean-soup-eating festival, when thousands of people flock to the village to eat local bean soup (brown beans, vegetables and pig fat- absolutely delicious) over a mad 4-day feast!
The most exciting thing about it is that the entire event actually takes place inside the wall! This consists of about 15 huge domed chambers, each of which could accommodate 150 people, joined by wide open archways- formerly a 2000-strong garrison of soldiers was housed here. Huge tree limbs blazed in the massive open fireplaces, fed by elderly apron-clad volunteers pushing wheelbarrows, and trestle tables were crowded with friends and relatives, some of whom had queued for half an hour to buy tickets for soup, polenta bars, and the local slightly fizzy red wine. Candles guttered, lots of talk and laughter, a fantastic atmosphere.
To make our joy complete, half of the wall was devoted to a huge local produce farmer’s market, and as before in Italy, my dairy-free diet collapsed in face of the generous samples pressed upon us; and then, of course, we had to buy some.. and then some more…
Interestingly, we only found one organic producer- and absolutely no organic vegetables at all on that market!
The next day, following a visit to an organic vegetable farm (same problems, better climate- but our caulis wiped the floor with his), we found ourselves in a provincial small town, where surrounding the massive cental “Duomo” cathedral, the cobbled streets were full of shiny new tractors, borehole rigs, solar panels and roast chestnuts. An agricultural show! Yay!
Again, my competitive streak was gratified to note that the organic veg stall there did not even warrant a photo!
The wall volunteer's website is: www.gvmpizzighettone.it
MORE ITALIAN FOOD OOOHHH!!!
Five years ago on a similar weekend jaunt, we stayed in the beautiful town of Cremona, home of the Stradivarius violin, fabulous buildings, markets- always written off as a slightly boring place, that can only be true if you are a boob-tubed raver favourite destination Ayia Napa. Its fabulous!
We searched out the street restaurant where we ate before, and following a huge plate of vegetable starters dripping with olive oil, I finally ate pumpkinn ravioli.
I have the recipe in a Carluccio cookbook at home, but mess around and stuff those little squares- moi? Its definitely worth a trip to Cremona just to eat them.
Our last eating experience was one of the most enjoyable. When you are catching a plane, there's a certain anxiety that makes you try and reach the airport early- just in case-, then, hungry, you eat some overpriced rubbish that could be found at any cheap junk food outlet worldwide.
We were just early enough to go looking, but found ourselves in a big industrial area of factories and offices- not a shop or cafe in site. With time running out, a sign to "self-service restaurant 2* piano) seemed the best bet. We followed a group of secretaries into teh lift, and entered a new gastronomic world- works-canteen, Italian style. For 8 Euros we sat down at big tables with the local labourers and business directors to eat- more and different ravioli, plus a wild rocket and bean salad, all served by a young chef. Took about 20 minutes, and we arrived at Bergamo airport well satisfied with our foodie weekend away.
VEG TALK
Back to reality at Stickney, the weather immediately confirmed that waiting for summer now is not an option: its WINTER!!
There have been some fabulous Romanesco, broccoli and spinach enjoying the sunny backend, but they are about to come to an abrupt end; then its time to test the metal of you, our customers, as the root-and-green season kicks in! We still have delicious mixed salad bags (I particularly love the fiery “Ruby Streaks” mustard leaves), coriander and flat leaved parsley-snipping leaves finely with scissors over your dish transforms the most mundane dinner.
Parsnips, celeriac and swedes have been held back but are now appearing, and hooray!! it’s the return of the Lincolnshire chestnut mushroom! I have enjoyed some home-grown oyster mushrooms that appeared in huge chandeliers on straw bales down the farm; but despite multiple identification books and mushroom meals for me- I’m still alive, look!!- I’m too English to produce them on the markets.
ORGANIC VEG ARE BETTER FOR YOU!
We knew that, but £12m spent proving that organic fruit&veg contain up to 40% more antioxidants than conventional put a spoke in the Food Standards Agency assertion that there’s no difference!
I recently spoke on Radio Lincolnshire, and was astonished by the vitriolic attack made by their farming reporter, who claimed organics is “rubbish” (I got him back, though). It also raises the question of “when is 5-A-DAY enough?” If consumers are eating fresh produce with 40% less nutrients than they should contain, maybe it should be-7 a day??
BREAST CANCER £250 to go to Lincoln Breast Cancer Support, thanks to all of you who contributed! One man paid £4 into the pot for “pink” kale on Nottingham Square!
XMAS DINNER
So you’re not ready to think about it- but whoever is?? Just remember that ordering early and getting it delivered saves lots of supermarket queuing misery- and we are simply- better!
Full details, order form and online order form link next week, but here’s the trailer:
CHRISTMAS EDITION FAMILY FRUIT AND VEG BOX £15.50
Contains 4lb Cara pots, 2lb carrots, 1lb onion, 1/2lb mushroom, 11/2lb sprouts,(as sprout sticks) 1 lb parsnips, savoy cabbage, salad bag, parsley,
2 lemons , 3lb mixed Cox and clementines
FULL ORGANIC CHRISTMAS HAMPER £35
Contains CHRISTMAS EDITION plus
Cashew Nut Roast, (vegan)
Organic Carrot Cake,
Special Coleslaw
Mushroom & Bean Festive Pate
Home-made vegan sour “cream” dressing
Farmhouse pickle
The above home prepared items are specially made by us using our
own ingredients!
(all items are vegan except carrot ca
